🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.