Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
